Panther Chameleons: 

The panther chameleon (Furcifer pardalis) is a species of chameleon which originates from and is commonly found in the eastern and northern parts of Madagascar. 

Size and Life Span:

Male panther chameleons can grow anywhere from 18 to 21 inches. Females grow to be about 12 to 14 inches long. Males can live anywhere from 5-7+ years. Females typically live 3-5 years. 

Housing:

Adult male panther chameleons should be kept in a minimum of 24x24x48 inches cage. Adult female panther chameleons should be kept in a minimum of 18x18x36 inches cage. Provide multiple branches or twigs for climbing, potted plants (Ficus benjamina, Umbrella tree, or hibiscus). Males are moderately territorial and should not be housed together. 

Substrate:

Chameleon cages are best left with a bare bottom. Substrate will only complicate the cleaning of your chameleon's cage and give insects a place to hide. If you choose to have substrate, keep it simple with paper towels or newspaper.

Temperature:

Ambient temperature for your chameleon should range between 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit. Maintain 60-80 % relative humidity and air movement (no stagnant humidity). Offer water either by misting the plants every 4-8 hours (Once in the morning, Mid-day If needed, and once before shutting off the lights) A mister or water dripper system can be very beneficial for the hydration of your chameleon. 

Lighting:

(Lighting is very important) T5 Arcadia 6% or T5 HO 5.0 UVB ZooMed Reptisun.

Food and water:

Feed a variety of gut-loaded insects such as crickets, dubia roaches, superworms, grasshoppers, and silkworms. Calcium powder (without D3) should be included with every feeding, Multivitamin with Calcium D3 should be provided twice a month. With optional use of Bee Pollen. 

Bonding:

Chameleons are most comfortable when left alone. But some do enjoy coming out of their enclosure and exploring. When holding your chameleon allow it to walk onto you, place your hand under its chin and allow it to climb across your hand. Hand feeding is also a great way to create a bonding connection between you and your chameleon.

Crested geckos: 

Crested Geckos (Correlophus (Rhacodactylus) ciliatus)

Crested geckos are originally from New Caledonia (a group of islands between Fiji and Australia). 

Size:

Both male and female crested geckos reach a moderate size of 4 to 4.5 inches snout-to-vent length, and 8 inches in total length.

Crested Gecko Life Span:

Under proper care, plan for your crested gecko to live 15 to 20 years.

Crested Gecko Housing:

An adult crested gecko should be housed in a 20-gallon tank with screen top. Crested geckos need room to climb, so provide a mix of branches, driftwood, cork bark, bamboo, and vines at a variety of heights and orientations. Add a variety of sturdy live plants (such as Epipremnum, Dracaena, and Ficus) as they will hide in the plants for cover.

Temperature:

Crested geckos like temperatures of 78 to 82° Fahrenheit during the day. It can drop to the low 70s at night. In summer, place crested geckos in a cool room if the temperature exceeds 87°. During the winter crested geckos will tolerate night drops into the 60s. Low level of UVB lighting (about 5 percent). Any added lighting will raise the temperature in the enclosure, so monitor that. Also, provide a gecko hideaway, so geckos can get away from the light if they want.

Food:

Since they are nocturnal, feed crested geckos in the evening. Supplement that food with crickets and other prey insects (roaches, waxworms, silkworms). Avoid feeding mealworms, since they have a hard, undigestible exoskeleton. Insects fed should be slightly smaller than the space between the gecko's. To boost your reptile's vitamin and mineral intake, dust the insects with a calcium/vitamin D3 powdered supplement three times a week. You can dust prey with multivitamin powder supplement once a week.

Bonding:

Crested geckos will eat fruit several times a week. Mash fruit or jarred baby food. Favorites include bananas, peaches, nectarines, apricots, papaya, mangoes, pears, and passion fruit.

Cuban Knight Anoles:
Cuban knight anole, Cuban giant anole. The knight anole (Anolis equestris ) is the largest species of anole in the Dactyloidae family. Other common names include Cuban knight anole or Cuban giant anole, highlighting its native country, but also found in Florida. Native to Cuba, this large anole is called chupacocote. Most are bright green in color with a yellow stripe on the side of the head and another on the shoulder.

Cuban Knight Anole Life Span and Life Span:
They can grow up to 17 inches long and live up to 6-10 years.
Housing:
Knight anoles are solitary creatures. Knight anoles are arboreal and mostly found high in trees on the trunk or branches in the canopy. However, they will descend to the ground to get from one tree to another. Knight anoles are diurnal and fiercely territorial. Initially, they turn to face almost any perceived threat, if only from a distance. The absolute minimum enclosure size for appropriately housing a single Cuban knight anole is 24”L x 24”W x 48”H. Cork Tubes, sturdy branches, large vines, ledges, live plants.

Substrate:
It’s ideal to use a substrate that imitates the “substrate” that the reptile naturally lives on in the wild. For anoles, that means it should resemble tropical soil. Recommend substrates for Cuban knight anoles are Zoo Med Eco Earth, Zoo Med ReptiSoil, Exo Terra Plantation Soil, Zilla Jungle Mix. Substrate should be at least 2” deep and completely replaced every 3-4 months. Remove poop daily, along with contaminated substrate.

Temperature:
Knight anoles need medium-strength UVB as part of their enclosure. The best UVB bulbs for anoles housed in a 24” x 24” x 48” terrarium. Recommend lights are Zoo Med T5 Reptisun 5.0 UVB, 24”, 6” above basking branch, Arcadia T5 HO 6%, 22” 10” above basking branch. Knight anoles should have a basking temperature of 90-95°F, as measured by a digital probe thermometer with the probe placed on the basking branch. There should be a cooler area in the lower regions of the enclosure that stays between 75-80°F. 

Humidity:
Average humidity should be 70-80%. Misting your anole’s enclosure with a sprayer first thing in the morning and again at night will help create the right humidity levels. It also provides an important source of drinking water!
Food and Water:
Feeder insects for knight anoles vary from dubia roaches, discoid roaches, red runner roaches, crickets, black soldier flies, hornworms, silkworms, mealworm beetles, superworm beetles. Fruit can be offered as an occasional treat, such as figs, berries, banana, mango, and even crested gecko diet. You will also need calcium and vitamin supplements to help prevent your knight anole from developing a deficiency. We recommend Repashy Calcium Plus LoD, lightly dusted on all of your lizard’s feeder insects. They should be fed every other day. It is a good idea to also provide a wall-mounted water dish. Change the water daily

Bonding:
Cuban knight anoles in the US pet trade are wild-caught/ field collected and they can be very bitey and defensive around humans. Captive-bred knight anoles, however, can be tamed with persistent effort. Instead of interacting with your anole by holding it, try hand-feeding it with a pair of feeding tweezers.